Cava
by Roger Porter, special to The Oregonian

Cava is a magnet drawing you in from the creepy shadows and windy, chain-linked, empty lots of Southeast Foster. Inside you'll find good cheer and a vibrant atmosphere.

Some of the action is focused on the lively bar, where beer, inexpensive wines and a few bubbly drinks (including the restaurant's Spanish namesake) take center stage. Lots of wood, a warm amber light and deep booths with wide tables ensure you're set for a comfortable experience. Because Cava is charming, friendly, neighborhood in feel, and priced just right for casual eating, you happily return again and again. The culinary geography converges on but is not limited to the Mediterranean; and the restaurant prides itself on serious, experimental but basically homey cooking, with always a surprise or two on the small menu.

Eat and drink: Mussels in cream and pancetta; silky potato soup; Moroccan chicken bathed in onions, on a bed of couscous and perked up with an authentically peppery harissa; a good rendition of cassoulet, almost enough to serve two. The juicy burger is right up there with the best. Lots of European wines priced in the $20 range and pub beers like Old Speckled Hen and Wisconsin favorite Old Style.

Reality check: With tastes headed for classics of the Med, it's a mystery why the kitchen falls short on a cluster of items, such as a sausage patty on greens or deviled eggs with fried chorizo.